The Cott Inn, Dartington, Totnes

Location: The Cott Inn, Dartington, Totnes 

http://www.cottinn.co.uk/

Time of visit: July 18^th 2013

Food eaten (meat choice): Beefburger and fries: 12.95

Food eaten (vegetarian choice) Potato gnocci with pea shoots, peas, spinach, parmesan and truffle oil £10.95
Overall rating 7/10

The venue

A beautiful thatched beast of a venue with ample indoor and outdoor seating. There aren't too many places like this anymore, and they’re certainly proud of their heritage. 

8/10

The Hog 

(Beefburger and skinny fries)

Now I apologise if this becomes a little bit of an obsessive trend, but I’ve been in search of the ‘perfect burger’ for many years, and it’s a task I’m dedicated too. My number one burger has been sitting comfortably in that position for 12 years+ now, and although there have been some good contenders, nothing has come close. So, you’ve guessed it, I ordered their burger; specifically a “Homemade beefburger, pancetta and gruyère cheese on a ciabatta roll with skinny fries”.

I always look forward to the thought of somebody wowing me with simple food done right, but unfortunately the outcome is often disappointing, and this was no exception. After checking with staff that this was indeed made from minced steak, I of course asked the question: ‘can I have it medium rare?’. The answer was an enthusiastic yes, and it had to be said for such a hot busy day, the staff were on the whole fantastic.

A good plate of food arrived, and I eagerly cut into the burger to find an overcooked dry mess of meat. It’s too common; so many restaurants are scared about serving up a pink burger and would rather cremate it.

Nevertheless, after weighing up my options and given the influx of diners, I felt it would be too much hassle to cause any fuss, so proceeded to eat.

The chips were light, crispy and tastily seasoned, and the pancetta/cheese combination is always going to be a winner. The ciabatta roll was a pleasant change from "the norm", but despite this, the overpowering taste was the relatively bland mince and chunks of onion. I think even given this burger as medium rare like I requested, it wouldn’t have tantalised my taste buds much further. I expected more from what was quite a hefty price tag for a burger, and given the quality looking food being presented around me.

5/10

The Hedge

(Gnocchi)

They say the simple things in life are the best and this dish was no exception.

I'm a big fan of gnocchi but it's not something you normally see on a menu down here in the south. 

Luckily the rapid growth of vegetarianism in this country is seeing restaurants, cafes and pubs alike branching out to provide a vegetarian selection, meaning I come home from dining out satisfied, rather than wondering why I just paid so much for something I can make myself at home.

So, to the gnocchi, a really happy offering on the Cott Inn specials board. In fact the vegetarian selection was good, leaving me with a rare choice of meals. 

The gnocchi itself was cooked perfectly; not too soft or 'mushy' with a wonderful flavour of peas, spinach, truffle oil and a hint of Parmesan. The spinach just wilting on the top. All the ingredients were fresh, distinctive, cooked perfectly and made for a wonderful combination; a great summers day dish and presented as well as gnocchi can be.

Truffle oil is one of my favourite things and it was a rare treat indeed to see it on the menu in a small Devon country pub! 

If I had to pick a negative of the dish, I would say the puddle of oil left in the bottom of my bowl at the end of the meal was unnecessary and made the last few pieces of gnocchi slightly greasy.

Having said this, I would happily pay the £10.95 the dish cost and completely devour another bowl of it, if it were offered to me again.

9/10

Overall

The Hedge and Hog say: “There's evidently good food to be found here from this beautiful venue, and the Gnocchi is no exception, but the basics still need some work. Steer clear of the ‘burgerrrrgh’ for now!”

7/10